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In the winter of 1807, an explorer and fur trapper by the name of John Colter set out to build trade relations with members of Crow Nation residing in the Yellowstone region. When he later recounted his journey through the other-worldly landscape of boiling mud pots and neon thermal features, people back east thought he’d gone mad. Decades later, Colter was vindicated when members of the Hayden Expedition published the first photographs and detailed paintings of the region, prompting Congress to declare Yellowstone the first national park in 1872.
Today, 150 years later, its rugged beauty remains as enchanting as ever, with a personality that changes by the season. Follow in Colter’s footsteps and experience the park under a blanket of snow in winter, or trek through the backcountry come summer. Spring and fall bring their own wildlife experiences—and thinner, shoulder-season crowds. Whatever season you choose, it’s sure to be an adventure.
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Winter
From mid-December through early March, you’ll find a snowy-white Yellowstone few visitors ever see, when most of the park can be accessed only via oversnow vehicle. The exception is a plowed highway, open year-round, that starts at the north entrance in Gardiner, Montana, and runs parallel to the park’s northern boundary. Luckily, this scenic highway is also one of the best places for wildlife-spotting; you can catch a glimpse of everything from snowshoe hares and foxes to bison and wolves in the Lamar Valley.
Explore on your own or, for expert commentary, book a naturalist-led tour like the Winter Wolf Discovery package led by Yellowstone Forever (the park’s official nonprofit partner) which includes round-trip transportation from Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport.
Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel & Cabins, just inside the park’s North entrance, makes for a conveniently located base this time of year. The property was renovated in 2019 but retains much of its historical charm in the form of clawfoot tubs and black and white photographs. There’s also an on-site restaurant, outdoor ice skating rink, and ski and snowshoe rentals. From here, traverse the surrounding trails or book a day trip to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone for awe-inspiring views of a frozen 305-foot waterfall. Upon your return, soothe sore muscles at Yellowstone Hot Springs or curl up with a cup of hot cocoa in the hotel’s iconic Map Room.
Spring
Shoulder season, which is still relatively quiet, offers the chance to experience two sides of the park. While snow remains at higher elevations, even into early May, the valley floor is usually clear—meaning you can lay fresh tracks in the backcountry in the morning, then swap your cross-country skis for two wheels in the afternoon. The 28-mile route from the community of West Yellowstone to Norris Geyser Basin is a great place to bike in April, when it’s closed to cars.
This is also the time to see both baby animals and Grizzlies—just remember to stay at least 100 yards away and carry bear spray for the latter. If you want a closer look, the Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center, a not-for-profit wildlife center in West Yellowstone, allows visitors to safely observe rescued bears, wolves, otters, bald eagles, and other native critters that, for one reason or another, can't survive in the wild.
As for where to lay your head, the Kelly Inn West Yellowstone is a modest stay, but it's a longtime go-to for groups and families with kids thanks to lofted bunkbeds and an indoor pool. The adults-only 1872 Inn, on the other hand, is a higher-end boutique escape, complete with a cozy lobby and works by local artists.
Summer
Summertime in Yellowstone is the park’s most iconic season—and with it, the biggest crowds. Think carefully about where to stay, and aim to book at least a year in advance. Don’t limit yourself to one place or type of lodging either; camping (or glamping), followed by a stay in a well-appointed lodge like the iconic Old Faithful Inn exposes you to all different features of the destination. That said, Cody, Wyoming—with its rich Western heritage and location on the eastern edge—makes for a great jumping-off point for summer activities, like a nightly rodeo.
Regardless of where you wind up, plan to rise early and stay out late. Even the most popular attractions, like the Grand Prismatic Spring and Old Faithful, can be enjoyed sans crowds before 9 a.m. and after 7 p.m. (Pro tip: Download the NPS Yellowstone app to sync your arrival with eruption times.) Then, while everyone else is just arriving and fighting for parking, head off for an afternoon of exploring lesser-known spots. Hike the “secret” Lone Star geyser and a forest of petrified Redwood trees. Then take a scenic cruise of Yellowstone Lake, which offers a lesson on the park's underwater ecology and the supervolcano that lies beneath it. Or, you can paddle the shores of the West Thumb Geyser Basin and see Fishing Cone, a now-dormant geyser that anglers once used to cook their catch.
Most importantly, don’t leave before taking part in at least one Yellowstone summertime tradition, like eating huckleberry ice cream—the berries, which grow in the park, are at their peak this time of year—or being serenaded by the Lake Yellowstone Hotel string quartet.
Fall
Many locals will tell you this is their favorite time of year to visit the park. By October, most tourists have gone home, but many amenities can still be enjoyed before the first frost. You’ll be able to peep golden Aspens along the Blacktail Plateau Drive and Lewis River, and hear elk bugling in the distance. Pull over to watch the bison roam or gaze at bighorn sheep—also in rut—without being honked at. No one’s in a rush.
The town of Jackson Hole, Wyoming, which gets overrun in the summer, quiets down, too. Local tour company The Hole Hiking Experience offers several naturalist-led hikes, with themes ranging from mindfulness to flyfishing. The four-hour “Autumn Walk & Elk Bugle” experience in nearby Grand Teton National Park highlights the migratory patterns of local fauna.
Come November, you can time your visit to coincide with opening day of ski season at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, or check out the National Elk Refuge, where the majestic mammals prepare to wait out yet another long winter.
A version of this article appeared in the March 2022 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
