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Philadelphia may be best known nationally for its hearty cheesesteaks and technicolor water ice, but there’s so much more to eat in the City of Brotherly Love. To get the full picture, read through Eater’s City Guide. But if one day in Philly is all that you’ve got, consider forgoing the city’s famous foodstuffs in favor of some other classics for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
9 a.m. Pastries at Darnel’s Cakes
A perfect day always starts at a pastry shop, and lucky for both residents and visitors, Philly is home to one of the region’s best. Darnel’s Cakes — located on the ground floor of the 444 N 3rd Building, a massive former tannery in the Spring Arts neighborhood — is about as good as you’ll get without boarding a flight to France. Owner Kyle Cuffie-Scott’s savory buns, cinnamon rolls, and danishes are all stellar, and the breads are perfect to take with you. Bonus points: Supporting this bake shop is part of their mission to raise awareness about the HIV/AIDS epidemic and supports local and national organizations that are at the forefront of fighting the virus, disease, and stigmas.
10 a.m. Coffee and provisions at Honeysuckle Provisions
Wander West — swinging through University City on the way — to arrive at Honeysuckle Provisions at 310 S 48th Street. There, you can pick up specialty coffee and tea drinks, local provisions like special Haitian treats, sauces, and coffee beans, and a remarkable array of fresh fruits and vegetables — very on-trend. It’s a welcoming place with outdoor seating for hanging out and taking a break. If you’re still hungry after eating several pastries (or are so enamored with Honeysuckle Provision’s that you want to head back later), there are usually lunch and dinner pop-ups that that run out of their kitchen in the back — check the website for the current schedule.
12 p.m. Lunch at Juana Tamale
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Yes, yes, you may have to travel in a bit of a roundabout way to make it to Juana Tamale for lunch, but it’s worth a little extra effort to get a filling, flavorful meal of birria tacos, ramen, and churros in a space that’s colorful and exciting. Chef Jennifer Zavala made her name with a spectacular birria pop-up over the past few years in Philly, so when her permanent location opened on East Passyunk Avenue, Philadelphians flocked there from all over the city. Walk all around the neighborhood and up East Passyunk — the city’s hottest dining strip — for even more food options, like sausage rolls at Stargazy, banh mi and pastries at Artisan Boulanger Patissier, and a perfect burger at Fountain Porter.
3 p.m. Cookies at Isgro Pastries
The city has had a proliferation of buzzy bakeries in the past few years (you already tried one this morning if you’ve been following along), but one of the oldest is still one of the best. Near the Italian Market in South Philly, Isgro has been around for over a century and still whips up excellent Italian rum cakes, soft and lemony ricotta cookies, chewy almond macaroons, perfect pignoli, and archetypal cannoli. The ricotta filling, dotted with mini chocolate chips, is not too sweet, and since it’s piped in to order, the shell is still crispy. If you aren’t planning to eat it right away (but why not?) ask the staff to hold the powdered sugar to limit sogginess.
5 p.m. Take your pick at Reading Terminal Market
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We’ll keep it short and sweet: Reading Terminal Market is actually worth the visit. It’s touristy, sure, but there are so many good dining options that it’s a shame to come to Philly and not at least get a Beiler’s doughnut or lumpia from Tambayan. The market closes at 6 p.m. daily, so sneak in on your way north for a snack before dinner.
6 p.m. A cocktail and a small plate (or two) at Sampan
This beloved Michael Schulson restaurant is a great place for a fun cocktail and small plates before dinner. One of the all-time greatest happy hours in the city, this Midtown Village hotspot serves up Asian fusion cuisine and memorable cocktails (such as their ming mule and purple pattaya). We recommend: Pair one of their fun cocktails with their edamame dumpling and chili crisp chicken bao.
7 p.m. Dinner and a show at South
A stalwart of Philadelphia’s dining and entertainment scene since the ’90s, South is a great option for out-of-towners seeking not just excellent soul food (buttermilk fried chicken, Creole deviled eggs, vegan jambalaya) but also a concert to enhance the vibe. You can reserve tables and book tickets in advance, so time your visit to Philly around a favorite singer or jazz group or trust that you’ll find a new favorite anytime you come here.
10 p.m. After-dinner weekend drinks at Middle Child Clubhouse
This city’s bar options are nearly as diverse as its dining scene, and while you’re in Fishtown, you should at least stop at Middle Child Clubhouse for the fun atmosphere and the cocktail menu, which are both representative of Philly in a way that is difficult to put one’s finger on. It stays open till midnight Fridays and Saturdays. You could also try nearby International Bar or Johnny Brenda’s for music. For a classic dive, make for Ray’s Happy Birthday Bar. If you’re looking for something a little swankier, go back into Center City for the Franklin, a sleek subterranean spot with intricate, meticulously made cocktails and roots in the Prohibition era. Or keep heading north to test your luck at Hop Sing Laundromat, an unmarked bar in Chinatown that makes some of the very best cocktails in the city on Fridays and Saturdays — but you have to get past the whims of the owner to be allowed entry.