36 Hours in Philadelphia

Take in views of the city skyline on a sunny stroll along the Schuylkill River Trail. Start near the South Street Bridge and walk north on the over-water boardwalk and riverside path, past David McShane’s enormous “The Phillies Mural” and the colonnaded Philadelphia Museum of Art, to Boathouse Row where crew teams launch from the bankside rowing clubs. Should it rain, head for the post-industrial Delaware riverfront with its own (albeit less scenic) waterside path, and take cover at the repurposed Cherry Street Pier. Inside a cavernous old pier building, stacked shipping containers now house studios for photographers, painters, graphic designers and sculptors. Peek inside these workspaces (many are open to the public) and the back garden facing the Ben Franklin Bridge.

Far more than a weekend is needed to explore the world-class cultural and scientific institutions lining the Benjamin Franklin Parkway — the city’s “Museum Mile” — which includes the Rodin Museum, the Franklin Institute and the Philadelphia Museum of Art with its cinematic steps (and triumphant Rocky statue). For now, start at the Barnes Foundation and its singular collection of Impressionist, Post-Impressionist and Modern art (admission $25). Paul Cézanne watercolors hang above West African masks, a Henri Matisse masterpiece rests beneath an iron hasp, and works by Pablo Picasso and Paul Klee are grouped with various antique hinges and a surly cat painting, artist unknown — eclectic arrangements meant to highlight connections across different cultures and media. On the first Friday of the month, the museum hosts live music performances from chamber orchestras and jazz ensembles (from 6 p.m.).

The formerly working-class Fishtown neighborhood now has some of the city’s most exciting restaurants. Modern Lebanese cuisine is the draw at Suraya, a beautiful space with patterned-tile floors, glowing pendant lamps and a leafy rear courtyard where celebratory groups gather around dipping bowls of hummus; crisp za’atar manoushe, a flatbread; and shareable plates of slow-roasted lamb and muhammara-brushed kebabs. (Set dinner only on weekends, $75 per person.) The mood is even more festive at Middle Child Clubhouse, a rollicking new hangout where the imaginative food — “okonomiyaki-style” latkes with Kewpie mayo and bonito flakes ($3), broiled oysters with ‘nduja butter ($15) and snickerdoodle crème brulée ($10) — is as fun as the cocktail list, with pitchers of grapefruit margaritas ($65) to get the party started.

Whatever you wake up craving, South Philly’s got it. Want an egg sandwich with sharp cheddar, arugula, bacon and peperonata on a soft sweet-potato bun ($11)? Head to the new side-street cafe of the popular bakery Mighty Bread Co. Craving lox and a schmear? Join the queue waiting to be invited inside Korshak Bagels, opened in 2021 by the charmingly idiosyncratic baker and poet Phil Korshak, whose devoted followers come for long-fermented sourdough bagels (from $2.25) and special schmears made with goat milk and mozzarella brine. For something soothing, nothing beats a steaming bowl of rich consomé, a Mexican-style broth, with rice and garbanzo beans ($4) at South Philly Barbacoa. And for something sweet, approach the window at Essen Bakery for the densely swirled chocolate-halva babka ($4).

A short walk east, the Queen Village neighborhood is home to small independent shops stocked with clothing, books and art that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else. Browse the shelves of Brickbat Books, a used-book store with creaky wood-plank floors and a select mix of artist monographs, illustrated children’s books, poetry and literature. Then stop at Moon + Arrow, a serene home goods store filled with soft knitwear, organic elixirs, wooden toys and jewelry handmade from recycled metals. Next door, Philly Vintage Bazaar is the place to find hand-painted leather jackets, 1950s pin-up-style dresses, bejeweled collar clips made by a local artisan or a 1980s Budweiser-print bikini.

Historic monuments, colonial brick buildings and the spirit of democracy await on Independence Mall, home to the Liberty Bell and the National Constitution Center. Begin at Independence Hall, as the nation did, inside the steepled Georgian-style building where the founding fathers debated and signed the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution (and where the basement once served as the city dog pound). National park rangers lead regular tours; timed tickets required ($1 processing fee). Afterward stroll through the adjacent Old City neighborhood in search of more colonial vibes, past the Betsy Ross House, where the first American flag was said to have been sewn, and down quaint cobblestone lanes, such as Elfreth’s Alley, where 18th-century houses still fly the Revolution-era flag.

Stay in the neighborhood for drinks, starting a few blocks north at Human Robot. This Kensington craft brewery produces both classic European-style lagers and juicy American I.P.A.s, which are poured in their taproom, an industrial space with a long wooden bar and exposed brick walls. Ask a bartender about the Milktube ($3), a 10-ounce glass of chuggable, creamy foam said to be inspired by a traditional Czech pour (it’s surprisingly dense and smooth, like the steamed froth of a cappuccino). Or continue a bit farther north to Martha, a cozy bar with a crackling fireplace, old movies projected on the wall and a dreamy enclosed patio strung with lights. To drink, try the smoky lapsang-tea-infused Negroni ($11) or choose from the selection of natural wines and craft beers on tap.

It’s hard to fathom that Eastern State Penitentiary, a crumbling, neo-Gothic compound occupying a full city block in the Fairmount neighborhood, was founded on progressive principles of prison reform when it opened in 1829. The now-dilapidated prison, which closed in 1971, pioneered solitary confinement cells (intended to rehabilitate prisoners) and radial floor plans, both copied by prisons worldwide. Today, the site is better known for its (supposed) paranormal activity and infamous former inmates, including the Chicago gangster Al Capone. On a 40-minute audio tour, step inside eerie cells and hear the stories of those who served time in the overcrowded cell blocks. Don’t miss the video installation #BlackGirlhood, by the filmmaker Dehanza Rogers, which examines the criminalization of young Black girls, along with other exhibits exploring the fraught, compounding issues of the criminal justice system today. Admission, $21.