Dear RVer, Welcome to “Tech Talk,” a new quarterly e-newsletter intended to help RV owners. FMCA members tell us they can’t get enough of this type of technical information, and we bet you feel the same way. So, we’ve expanded the scope of what we provide in Family RVing magazine (the official publication of FMCA that members receive each month) and created this electronic newsletter focused on “RV tech.” Wishing you smooth travels this spring!
The FMCA Team
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P.S. Stay tuned! Look for the next "Tech Talk" installment in June 2019.
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FMCA members get access to tech tips and RV advice each month. Join today.
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By Gary Bunzer, Technical Editor |
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How to make your visit to the service shop less stressful while minimizing downtime
Has something like this ever happened to you? You’re on the third day of that much-needed vacation when you stop for lunch and realize the RV generator will not start. No problem, you say; there’s an RV repair shop nearby. So, you decide to return to that service center. As you enter, another RV pulls in behind you. You explain your problem to the service writer, sign the repair order, proceed to the customer waiting area, grab a cup of coffee, and wait. And wait . . . As you hear your vacation clock ticking away, you realize the RV that pulled in behind you is long gone. You glance out and see your generator in pieces scattered around the service bay. Finally, hours later, the service manager informs you that your RV is ready. “Funny,” he says, “It was just a loose wire behind the remote dash switch.”
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After six hours, all the technician found wrong was a loose wire? What? Why did it take so long?
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Three electrical testing devices all RV owners should have in their tool kit
RV Doctor Gary Bunzer recommends three test devices RV owners should carry to ensure a safe electrical connection to a shore power receptacle. Any RV owner can perform these simple tests before plugging into electricity. Never assume the pedestal you're plugging into is wired properly. It’s better to run a few easy tests to verify that it's safe to use that electrical source.
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Reminders for handling sanitary hoses
Have you considered how unsanitary the ground may be around the water, sewer, and electrical hookups at RV parks? Accidental sewage spills, leaking sewer hoses, and careless flushing of sewer hoses have contaminated most sites. Consider this when you roll up the water hose and drag it along the ground in that area. Keep the male end off the ground and start rolling from that end, as the female end is less likely to pass the contamination into the hose. Sanitize the hose and ends frequently with a solution of ¼-cup household bleach to one quart of water, using a spray bottle.
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Always thread the ends together to keep out crawling creatures, and be sure to wash your hands.
Bill Hendrix, F761S • Erie, CO
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A discussion of new products on the market to enhance your RV lifestyle.
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Portable Battery The Dometic PLB40 portable battery is designed for use with powered coolers and other 12-volt appliances, as well as USB devices. On a single charge, the battery’s integrated lithium iron phosphate cells provide 40 amp-hours/512 watt-hours of power for 40 hours, and such cells have a life cycle up to four times longer than lithium-ion batteries, according to the product description. The PLB40 can be charged using a 12-volt vehicle socket, AC power, or a solar panel. (Check with your solar panel manufacturer to ensure compatibility.) An integrated battery management system protects the PLB40 from under-voltage, over-voltage, short-circuiting, and overheating. The PLB40 weighs 16.62 pounds and measures 7.75 inches by 10 inches by 7.75 inches. The manufacturer’s suggested retail price is $849.
Dometic North America • (800) 544-4881
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Multifunction Switch Module RV Intelligence has introduced smartRVcontrols, a remote-controlled, multifunction module that makes it possible to operate an RV’s lights, jacks, awnings, slideouts, relays, waste valves, and more using an app on a smartphone or tablet. Cell or Wi-Fi service is not needed to operate smartRVcontrols, which has a 100-foot range, according to the product description. The smartRVcontrols can be installed three ways: by replacing an existing switch with a smartRVcontrols module; by working with the existing switch; or, in cases where there is no existing switch, by adding smartRVcontrols as a standalone switch. The free smartRVapp is available for iOS and Android. The manufacturer’s suggested retail price for smartRVcontrols is $120.
RV Intelligence • (407) 832-0501
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By Gary Bunzer, Technical Editor |
| Recently I acquired an older, 24-foot-long RV with no slideouts. It has a bit of flooring damage in the kitchen area. Repair shop staff told me that changing the flooring would mean that the cupboards, dinette, and refrigerator must come out. And if the repair extends into the bedroom, that must come apart, too. Instead, I suggested that I would get some laminate so that they would only have to cut out the present flooring around all the interior amenities, and then install the laminate. But I recently learned from a friend that in double-wide trailers coming from the factory, the laminate is installed after the home is sited. That is because trouble results from laminates shifting around during transit. Will I experience problems with laminate because of flexing while traveling? We will install the flooring with 1/4-inch round molding and follow all the manufacturer’s instructions. The laminate is about 3/8-inch thick and may cause problems with the table legs and who knows what else, but that can be adjusted for, I'm sure. What do you think? David Belanger, F399177 • Erie, CO
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Dave, as long as you remove and replace the damaged section(s) carefully, you should have no trouble installing a laminate over the subfloor. The key is to tie it down with the perimeter molding, even around the cabinetry. You shouldn’t have to remove the entire interior flooring, just the damaged sections. Here are the procedures for replacing the damaged flooring: First, determine the thickness of the existing floor. The easiest way to do this is to drill a hole in the damaged area, away from cross supports or floor joists. Use any size hole saw attached to an electric drill motor. The larger the hole saw, the better. Not only will this allow you to obtain a sample plug of the floor thickness, but a large hole saw will allow for an inspection of the inner floor area using a flashlight and a mirror. After determining the location of cross supports, joists, or other blocking that may be in the subfloor, lay out and mark the damaged piece that needs to be removed. It is always best to replace enough of the flooring to extend from one joist or support to another. If the damaged area extends further, go to the next one. The cut lines should be directly over the center of a floor joist so that when the new piece is inserted, it will be supported by an existing joist or beam on at least two sides. Additional supports running in the opposite direction may have to be added in order to accomplish this. Be sure the cutout area is straight and true. If the joists and supports are made of metal, set the depth of the circular saw cut to a little less than the measured floor thickness. If they are all wood, the saw blade depth should be set a little deeper than the thickness of the flooring. In most cases, you should be able to make at least two of the cuts with the circular saw. If the damaged area extends to the base of a cabinet or dinette, it may be necessary to obtain a reciprocating saw that will enable a cut to be made closer to the obstructing cabinet. A worst-case scenario may find one using a hammer and a chisel to make those cuts that adjoin cabinets or other obstacles. Propane lines, wiring, or plumbing may be under the floor, so be careful not to cut them. Once all the perimeter cuts have been made, remove any and all screws, staples, or nails that may have been used to secure the original flooring to the supports. After all fasteners have been removed, lift or pry the damaged section out and examine the beams and subfloor supports for rot or damage. If they are unaffected, proceed with the replacement. But if you see damage to wooden joists or supports, those rotted pieces must be removed and replaced. Measure the lengths needed and cut new supports out of appropriately sized lumber. Secure these to the available good wood inside the floor. In some cases, it may be necessary to remove a larger section of flooring than originally intended in order to secure subfloor components to the existing, structurally sound framework. The goal is to have a solid support below the entire perimeter of the replacement piece prior to inserting it in place. After the subfloor components are in place, measure the entire cutout area and transfer the dimensions to the new piece of plywood of the same thickness as the existing flooring. Be sure to replace all wet, rotted, or deteriorated insulation found inside the floor. This step is doubly important in colder climates. Test the new piece for a proper fit, and then apply wood glue to the new section at the supports and secure it with the appropriate screws. Be sure the screw heads are countersunk slightly into the plywood so as not to interfere with the finished floor covering.
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Use a readily available, premixed floor patch to fill any voids or gaps around the perimeter of the replacement section; commercial-grade floor patch is available at most hardware stores or home centers. Sand smooth any rough areas or joints. Then install the laminate according to the manufacturer’s procedures. You should be good to go! A nice little handyman project for you.
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FMCA's picks for the RV products and tips you need now.
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Spring Prep & RV Safety Check
If you’re looking for inspiration to prep your RV for the fun times ahead, check out this article by RV writer Mark Quasius. Plus, Walter Cannon, executive director of the RV Safety & Education Foundation, offers spring RV safety checks.
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RV Electrical Safety
Mike Sokol has been sharing his electrical knowledge with RVers and others for more than 40 years. His book RV Electrical Safety provides information to help RVers understand the basics of RV electricity and to help prevent issues when plugging their RV in at the campsite. Mike also shares his knowledge with the RV community via his “RVElectricity” articles, videos, and seminars on RVtravel.com.
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Get RV roadside assistance for a discounted price.
Unexpected mechanical problems sometimes threaten to ruin an RV vacation. One way to cope with the uncertainties is to make sure you subscribe to a quality roadside assistance plan. The FMCA Roadside Rescue Plan®, backed by SafeRide Motor Club, provides assurance that help will be there when and if you need it. And better still, this coverage is available at FMCA's discounted group rate. The plan provides towing to the nearest qualified repair facility; tire changes; lockout service; fuel delivery; battery boosts; technical advice; and more.
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Wish you knew more about maintaining your RV? FMCA can help! Get monthly tips when you join the club.
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