Nothing freshens up a winter worn garden bed like a new layer of mulch! Mulching can help conserve soil moisture, control soil temperature, protect plants from damage and help inhibit weed germination. Most Outagamie soils are high in mineral content, but low in organic matter; the use of mulches in the home garden and their incorporation into the soil each gardening season provides an opportunity to increase soil organic matter content and improve the physical condition of the soil.
There are two differing types of mulches, organic and inorganic. Popular organic mulches include woodchips, bark, straw and seed hulls; inorganic mulches include rocks and gravel. Stone mulches will transfer more heat to underlying soil than a wood-based mulch. Ideally, organic mulches do not compact easily and break down slowly. When choosing a mulch, take into consideration how often the area is going to be worked. In an area that is primarily used for annual plants, it may be more practical to use a more temporary organic mulch (such as pine needles, grass clipping or straw) that can be mixed in soil and break down faster because the bed will be worked repeatedly. More permanent landscape beds with trees and shrubs are ideal choices for wood chips and inorganic mulches such as stone.
Initially mulches should be applied 2-3 inches deep, more is not always better! In subsequent planting years, mulches can be top-dressed with lesser amounts. Mulches should not be applied closer than 6 inches next to the base of any woody tree or shrub, as the mulch holds moisture that can open up pathways for insects and disease. Spring mulch should be applied after the soil has thawed, as this will prevent the mulch from holding in cold temperatures for longer.
Please visit https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/mulches-home-gardens-and-plantings/ for more information. Specifics on differing mulches can be found in the below chart from Colorado State Extension:
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| Long lasting, dark brown color.
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| Compact; forms a crusty surface. Expensive. Can cause sickness in dogs if ingested. Avoid if dogs present.
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| Molds may form on surface. Harmless if stirred to break crust. Can be difficult to source.
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| May retain too much moisture at surface or compact if kept
wet.
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| Cobs dyed various colors. Availability limited in some areas.
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Readily available. Nutrient recycling.
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| Must be applied loosely, in thin layers to reduce matting. If herbicide has been used, wait at least three cuttings (use the fourth cutting) before adding the clippings.
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| Allow grass to dry to prevent matting and disagreeable odor before applying as a
mulch.
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| Attractive color. Fire Resistant.
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| Disagreeable odor for several weeks until dry. May blow away. Must be kept away from plant crowns and tree trunks due to risk of “burning” during decomposition.
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| May be available from local breweries. Must be applied 6″ deep to be effective. Acidic pH and secondary chemicals may work as chemical weed control.
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Composted Leaves (Leaf Mould)
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| Readily available. Nutrient recycling.
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| Can prevent weeds, won’t prevent soil compaction.
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| Excellent soil amendment.
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| Readily available. Nutrient recycling.
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| May blow away. Can be a fire hazard. Wet leaves can compact.
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| Beneficial for overwintering pollinators.
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| | Not very attractive. Can provide cover for rodents. Limits oxygen and air-exchange in soil. Don’t use color inserts or red ink.
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| Use 3 to 6 sheets thick and cover with organic mulches. Can prevent water and air infiltration into soil.
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Usually available in bulk amounts.
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| May crust on surface. May blow away. When dried, it can cake and become impervious to water. Flammable. Not a renewable resource, harvest can have high environmental costs.
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| Best used as a soil amendment in limited situations, not as a mulch.
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| Attractive. Do not compact.
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| | Can prevent water infiltration to soil if applied too deeply.
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Shredded bark, bark chips, chunk bark
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| Long-lasting, attractive. Does not blow away easily.
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| Cost relatively high. Shredded bark may compact. Large bark chunks may impede spreading perennials. Bark is generally water resistant and can increase irrigation costs and prevent rain from reaching the soil. Highly flammable.
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| Use for informal walkways.
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Blows easily. Highly flammable. Weed seeds often present.
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| Best used as a temporary mulch around plants needing protection
in winter. Anchor with wire mesh.
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Wood chips (Arborist mulch)
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| Long lasting. Readily available. Does not blow away. Popular
in perennial gardens. Available in a variety of colors.
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| Texture and color not uniform. Can form thick crusts that prevent water infiltration in hot, dry conditions. High surface temperatures can be a problem for plants and feet. Does not transfer heat to soil. Can be a fire hazard.
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| Will not compact readily. Excellent mulch in watered gardens. A water-proof layer can form in hot, dry conditions (like xeriscapes) unless the mulch is regularly disturbed.
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Wood Shavings, Pole Peelings, Sawdust
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| | Compact easily and can create barrier to water. Easily blown away.
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| Should only be applied to a depth of an inch or two.
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Reduces weeds. Allows air and water penetration. Easy to apply. Though slow to degrade, require regular replacement to remain effective.
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Interrupt the life-cycle of many native pollinators. Some may be costly. Most deteriorate in sunlight unless covered with another mulch material such as wood chips. Require regular replacement to remain effective.
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Not recommended for landscapes. A good option for agriculture or vegetable production where it can be regularly replaced.
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| Increases water infiltration. Can improve growth of perennials, especially in water-saving gardens.
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| Heat is transferred to the soil from stone mulches. Care should be taken to prevent spill-over into walkways and sidewalks.
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| Excellent mulch. Larger sizes (greater than 1/2″) do not prevent weeds well and are not as beneficial for water savings as smaller particle sizes.
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River Rock, Cobble, Large Stones
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| Can provide architectural interest to gardens and landscapes.
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| Stones greater than 1/2″ in diameter do not function well as mulches.
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| Can be effectively used as garden borders and accents in conjunction with other materials.
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Join Wisconsin Horticulture Extension for the next series of free online gardening programs!
Programs typically consist of a short presentation followed by live Q&A with the presenter. These events are free, but registration is required. If you can’t attend during the scheduled time slot, we will send the recorded version shortly after. This series is open to the public and is suitable for gardeners of all skill levels. We hope to see you there!
For more information please visit: https://bit.ly/3NWB0bC
Establishing a Bee Lawn — Current Research and Practical Techniques
Thursday, April 25, Noon–1 p.m.
This program focuses on the research and practical methods behind bee lawns. Topics
include optimal timing for planting, whether to overseed an existing lawn or start from
scratch, and other establishment practices. Learn recommendations for different sites and information about purchasing pre-made bee lawn mixes or mixing your own. This webinar is a must-attend for those looking to make their outdoor spaces more pollinator friendly.
This webinar series is hosted by UW-Madison, Division of Extension, Horticulture Program.
Visit our website for upcoming events and learning opportunities.
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An EEO/AA employer, University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension provides equal opportunities in employment and programming, including Title VI, Title IX, the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) and Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act requirements.
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